Without ever having to set foot outside the Lower East Side, Ernestos transports guests to the Basque region of Northeastern Spain and the Southwest of France.
Chef Ryan Bartlow invented Ernesto’s after spending time in San Sebastián and Pamplona, inspired by the Basque language and an incredible cuisine that blends the two regions.
“The food was unlike anything else, and I knew the experience would have a lasting impact on my career,” Bartlow said. “The emphasis on seasonality, method and technique has continued to influence my approach to cooking.”
Chef Ryan Bartolo began his cooking career after discovering Emeril Lagasse on TV. In fact, Bartlow discovered his mother’s cookbooks in his teens.
“I kept a copy of my mother’s The Silver Palate Cookbook on my bedside table, and by 15, I had mastered Chicken Marbella,” he said. “I realized cooking could be a career and I could follow that path.”
Eventually, these cookbooks shaped gastronomy and served as the gateway to Ernesto’s Spanish journey.
Today, Chef Bartlow celebrates his very own cookbook! Essentially Basque: Bringing Spanish Cooking Home! Co-authored with acclaimed food writer and longtime Anthony Bourdain collaborator Laurie Woolever, the book brings together more than 70 recipes of rich culinary traditions of Spain’s Basque region in home kitchens, along with cocktails from Ernesto’s and recommendations for wine, beer, sherry, vermouth, and cider pairings.
“My time in the Basque Country had a lasting influence on me, and the book allowed me to share the recipes, stories, and memories connected to that experience,” he said. “I hope readers come away with a deeper appreciation for Basque cuisine and the culture behind it.”
Much of the book’s flavor comes from his formative cooking at the three-Michelin-starred Akelarre in San Sebastián; Bartlow focuses on rustic, friendly, and flavorful Spanish comfort food. Some featured recipes include:
- Tortilla de patatas: A custardy, tender classic potato and egg omelet.
- Croquetas de jamón: Creamy béchamel centers with perfectly crisp exteriors.
- Gildas: The iconic Basque pintxo combining anchovies, peppers, and olives.
Similarly, Ernesto’s menu reflects these key dishes in its complex, evolving format, based on a tapas-style that changes daily depending on the chef’s judgment. Ernesto’s menu is fluid and market-driven, based on the freshest ingredients available. Many seasonal ingredients in their Basque-inspired dishes allow the menu to evolve with the seasons.
Being present in the fall, the signature dish, Nusestra Tortilla, is a great representation due to its simplicity. In traditional Spanish cooking, this dish combines eggs and potatoes, both of which are celebrated in everyday life in a Spanish household.
“It’s a classic dish that reflects our appreciation for Spanish food culture and the importance of getting the fundamentals right.”
Another fan favorite includes the Bikini Hemingway. A pressed sandwich made with house-made txistorra (Basque chorizo), shrimp, and Mahón cheese from the Spanish island of Menorca, all served on pan de cristal from Barcelona and finished with honey, olive oil, and salt.
Inspired by a pintxo at Café Iruña in Pamplona that Ernest Hemingway loved.
“In Spain, these sandwiches are called bikinis because they’re cut into triangles resembling a bikini, hence the name Bikini Hemingway,” Bartlow explains.
Just as important as the delicious flavors that create these well-known dishes is sourcing. Many of the dishes at Ernestos include Ibérico pork, Galician turbot, and txistorra. The Ernestos team works closely with producers like Cinco Jotas, known for its Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, and collaborates closely with Lidia Sanchez of Taste of Spain Foods, a leading importer of Spanish products. In addition, Despaña is a longtime New York source for Spanish specialties like jamón, chorizo, conservas, and olive oil.
For first-time diners, Bartlow recommends staples like the chicken croquettes, tortilla de patatas, and tosta de gambas. For something more substantial, the secreto Ibérico off the grill is a favorite. Or the salmorejo, a thicker version of gazpacho, served with jamon. For those who enjoy seafood, Bacalao Rebozado, a decadent fried fish, doesn’t get the attention it deserves, according to Chef Bartlow.
Just as important as the food, Basque cuisine includes an extensive wine list complementing richer, savory dishes. At Ernestos’, the wine list is entirely Spanish, featuring indigenous grapes and styles that many guests may have never heard of before. Daryl Cook, who oversees the wine program, has thoughtfully curated a list that complements the food while showcasing the diversity of Spain’s wine regions. The richer, saltier, seafood-driven the dish is, the wines with acidity, minerality, and freshness pair best with those flavors without overpowering them.
“We love when guests choose to drink by the glass throughout their meal and let us guide them through a sort of mini pairing,” Bartlow said. “It’s an opportunity to show how different Spanish wines can bring out different elements of a dish while introducing guests to regions and producers they may not know yet.”
Last but not least, diners absolutely cannot leave Ernesto’s without saving room for the Basque Cheesecake, in the home of the Basques. The best Basque cheesecake should “not be overly burnt,” and the interior should be “moist but not runny,” according to Bartlow. The flan is a personal favorite that tastes like pure heaven, creamy in the center, surrounded and layered with the perfect amount of fluffy texture and sweet indulgence.
Since first opening in 2019, Bartlow has wanted to create something with its own identity, rooted in its experience with Spanish and Basque food. Over time, the restaurant has become a point of reference for people interested in Basque cuisine. Ernesto’s has been featured on the New York Times’ 100 Best Restaurants in 2024, ranked #43, and again in 2026, and has received major recognition as one of the New York Times’ Best New Restaurants of the Year in 2021 and in the Michelin Guide for New York.
Bartlow hopes every diner feels like they’re at a place where a meal is about more than just what’s on the plate.
“For first-time guests, I hope they leave having discovered something new, and for our regulars, I want Ernesto’s to feel like a place they can always come back to, knowing they’ll be taken care of while still finding something new to enjoy.”
Ernesto’s is located at 259 East Broadway. For more information, visit ernestosnyc.com.
